Andy Fenner believes you can’t sell meat unless you know what to do with it and, in between personal food philosophies and agricultural insights, Meat Manifesto celebrates various cuts of meat, by introducing readers to them and offering delicious recipes best suited to each specific one.
Andy smokes, grills and roasts his way through beef, pork, lamb, venison, poultry and even goat as recipes range from exotic (tongue, ears and offal) to basic (how to grill a pork chop).
The book will explain how to make bacon at home but also why you should be eating grass-fed beef, as opposed to feedlot.
It will show you how to butcher a chicken at home but also explain how to best cook it.
It is meticulously researched but presented in an approachable way.
The end goal is to walk people through various meat recipes, sure, but also to strengthen the reader’s relationship with their supply chain by asking them to consider if they really are happy with the status quo.
This Father’s Day, treat your dad to one of these two deliciously meaty dishes – and the book, of course!
Lamb rump with deep fried capers and anchovy aioli
Most of us buckle before a whole leg of lamb roasted for Sunday lunch, but turn your attention to the smaller, more delicate rump as an easy weeknight meal for two. It’s a cut that invites you to try the meat a little pink in the middle. Anchovies work well with lamb and I love how the deep-fried capers in this recipe add texture. Incidentally, capers are an age-old accompaniment to mutton; this meal featured in Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night and, frankly, what’s good enough for the bard…
Cooking time: 20–25 minutes
For the lamb
2–3 (800g in total) lamb rumps
salt, to season
black pepper, to season
2–3 sprigs thyme, destemmed
For the capers
2 Tblsp capers, drained
1 cup canola oil
For the aioli
1 garlic cloves, peeled, whole
1 egg yolk
100ml olive oil
100ml canola oil
1 Tblsp tinned anchovies, drained, finely chopped
½ tsp sea salt
Preheat the oven to 200°C.
With a sharp knife, score the fat side of the lamb rump, coat on all sides with olive oil and rub generously with sea salt, black pepper and thyme.
On the stovetop, heat an ovenproof pan over a medium heat and cook the rumps (one at a time, if necessary), fat-side down until browned.
Place the pan in the oven and roast for another 20–25 minutes or until done to your liking (use a meat thermometer to establish the internal temperature: I’d recommend 60°C for this cut).
Remove from the oven, set aside and rest for 15 minutes.
For the aioli:
In a bowl, crush the garlic and add the sea salt. Whisk in the egg yolk.
Combine the olive and canola oils.
Put the garlic and egg mix into a food processor, set the paddle on its lowest setting and very, very slowly add the oil mixture.
When the aioli is a thick, yoghurty consistency, remove, place in a bowl and fold in the anchovies.
For the garnish:
In a deep pot on the stovetop, heat the canola oil and carefully add the capers. Cook until they “pop”.
Remove with a slotted spoon.
To serve: thickly slice the lamb rump and fan onto a plate. Spoon over a dollop of anchovy mayo and top with capers.
Burnt fig, mozzarella and biltong salad
We openly celebrate cured beef from abroad like bresaola (a dry-cured beef speciality from Northern Italy) but, weirdly, South Africans don’t treat biltong with the same respect.
Biltong shouldn’t be restricted to a snack in front of the rugby or road-trip fuel. We should celebrate our homegrown speciality cured meat more. For this recipe, I’ve used flavours that
I know work with bresaola and would be pretty great with biltong too. Cooking the figs releases their sweetness, a neat counter to the salty beef.
The result is a quick meal that looks impressive and tastes delicious.
Preparation time: less than 10 minutes
For the figs
olive oil, enough to cover the base of a pan
8 ripe figs, halved lengthways
For the salad
20ml olive oil
5ml sherry vinegar
sea salt, to season
cracked black pepper, to season
½ red onion, finely sliced (use a mandolin, if possible)
2 cups watercress, washed, dried
150g wet, lean beef biltong, thinly sliced
1 x 125g ball fresh mozzarella
For the figs
On the stovetop, heat enough olive oil to cover the base of a pan and place the figs, cut-side down.
Fry for 2–3 minutes (it’s okay if deep colour develops).
Remove the pan from the heat.
For the salad:
In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper and, using a fork, whisk to emulsify.
In a deep, non-reactive bowl, combine the red onion and watercress leaves and pour over the dressing. Use your hands to mix gently, but be careful not to bruise the leaves.
To serve: plate the dressed leaves as a base on a large platter and top generously with the beef biltong. Scatter torn mozzarella and arrange the cooked figs on top.
Photography: Craig Fraser
Food styling: Justine Kiggen